Meanderings Made With Serif WebPlus.
Italy Here We Come, May 2010
Taking our new home abroad for the first time proved an exciting experience. In the past, when towing a caravan we had always felt the need to plan ahead. All sites were carefully choreographed and safely recorded. Now we were determined to play to the obvious strengths of a motorhome and refuse to pre book. Well, almost! We booked a site on Lake Como, one in Verona and one in Venice - the rest we left to chance. May proved a good month to travel and there was a real sense of excitement as we drove down to our favourite CL outside Dover, Lenacre Court Farm, for an overnight prior to catching an early Sea France ferry. Sea France have grown on us in recent years. The food is good and the boat is clean and comfortable whilst we can usually also get the best deal.
Arriving in Calais at about 10am, we hit the road for our first overnight somewhere near Luxembourg. Having taken advice form other travellers, we took the autoroute to Dunkirk and headed down the A25 towards Lille. From Lille we joined the A23 to Valenciennes and turned east on the A2 to join the A7 traveling north of Charleroi. The A15 then took us north of Namur to join the A4 and once more head south towards Luxembourg. We really wanted to avoid toll charges whilst still maintaining a good average speed and this route proved excellent.
Our first site was Bon Accueil, near Hesperange south of Luxembourg. Excellent for an overnight stop, it was also well placed for us to rejoin the autoroute towards Mulhouse. Throughout our holiday we used Camping Card ACSI extensively and were never disappointed either with the excellent value or the consistent quality of the sites.
The following morning we were back on the road, keen to arrive at our second site near Mulhouse by mid afternoon. South of Luxembourg we joined the A31 south to Nancy. Here, we left the autoroute and travelled down the N57. This proved a lovely run down the side of the Moselle past Epinal. North of Remiremont, we joined the N66 taking us to our next site at Cernay. Again, found in our Camping Card ACSI book, this municipal site, Municipal Les Acacias, was all we could have asked for. Very quiet out of season it is a large, spacious site within walking distance of the town centre. We soon learnt that Cernay is famous for its storks which were abundant nesting all around the site usually on high poles provided for their convenience.
The following morning we felt refreshed ready for the journey to our first booked site on the banks of Lake Como.
Following an early breakfast, we hit the road for the journey to our site on Lake Como. Joining the A35 near Mulhouse, we travelled south to turn onto the A2 at Basel. Though we had bought the Swiss vignette prior to leaving UK, it is worth mentioning that we have avoided toll roads all the way to Italy. The A2 proved a most attractive route as it bypassed Luzern and headed up the side of the lake. We had been looking forward to travelling through the St Gotthard tunnel, again free, and we were not disappointed. Seventeen km long, it seemed endless - certainly putting the Dartford tunnel to shame! From Lugano, we headed cross country to the D340 which hugs the Lake Como coastline. All the literature had suggested we avoid this route and travel the long way round to travel up the east coast of the lake. Once we joined the road, we could understand why and it would certainly not be recommended for caravans. The road twists and turns with some extremely narrow sections but scenically it was an absolute delight. Finally, we drove through Dongo to reach our site in Sorico. "La Riva" is set on the side of the lake overlooking snow clad mountains beyond.
The site was quiet out of season, and the owners provided a warm welcome. There was the bonus of a lakeside pitch and a cycle track adjacent which led to the village. It provided the first opportunity to off load the bicycles and, for a couple of days, gently relax.
In many ways reluctant to move on, we nevertheless had a lot of touring in front of us and Verona beckoned. This time we travelled down the east side of the lake. Not the most attractive of routes since much was in tunnels, it was, nevertheless, far quicker and easier driving. We soon found ourselves south of Bergamo on the A4 heading past Brescia to Verona.
Travelling through the centre of Verona was challenging but our site proved worth the effort .Camping Castel San Pietro is a superb site encircled by ancient city walls positioned high above the city. Essentially a camp site, there are spaces for five or so motorhomes and though it is tight the views across the city from a large patio area are quite spectacular.
After a steep walk down the hill you arrive at the river and walk across the bridge into the city
Having not visited Verona before, it certainly lived up to the glowing descriptions in the guide books. Again, we had allowed a few days to see the sights and we thoroughly enjoyed strolling around the city and soaking up the atmosphere under clear blue skies.
With time passing too swiftly, we soon found ourselves back on the road to Venice. This is a city we have visited several times. It has an ambience all of its own and we never tire of returning.
Camping Miramare is at Punta Sabioni from where you can catch the ferry across to Venice and to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello within a five minute walk from the site. For the first time since entering Italy we were able to take advantage of a wireless connection at the site and catch up on the emails.
We had allowed five nights here and knew that this would not prove long enough. The day after arrival we soon we found ourselves approaching St Mark's Square and and enjoying the view down The Grand Canal
No matter how many times you visit, there always seems to be new areas to explore. For the first time we found the Ghetto area of the city providing a very different experience to the crowded atmosphere of St Mark's. Travelling back up the canal in one of the ubiquitous vaporetto, we once more enjoyed the view of The Rialto Bridge.
The following day we travelled out to the islands of Murano and Burano. Both favourites of ours, we love the brightness of the colours and the slightly less frenetic atmosphere.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria and San Donato in Murano is a must for any visitor. Dating back to the 7th Century, inside of the church, the most important church on the island, is a beautiful floor made by mosaics (1140) and some splendid paintings.
It has an atmosphere all of its own and is always worth a few quiet moments. In the square is a small cafe where we delight in some local cuisine.
The days at Camping Miramare sped by and, with a promise to return in the not too distant future, we hit the road again towards Bologna and Tuscany.
Our eldest daughter, Sarah, and her family had taken a villa in Tuscany for a week and we had gladly accepted their offer of lunch prior to leaving the UK. Thus it was that we left Venice for Tuscany though it is also an area that we enjoy, having previously spent time in Florence, Lucca, Pisa et al. We initially headed down the coast towards Ravenna and then cut inland to Bologna. Though we would have liked to have visited Bologna, time was pressing so we headed south of the city to Rioveggio where we booked into Riva del Setta. Another site found in Camping Card ACSI. We had long learnt not to arrive at sites prior to 3pm but soon settled in for a quiet evening. The following day we moved on to Montecatini Terme to the site, Belsito. Prior to arriving there, we reconnoitered the route to Castelveggio where Sarah and family were staying. Little did we know that this delightful village was high in the Tuscan hills and could only be reached by a tortuous route on a road often reduced to passing places. We had hoped that there might be an aree di sosta that we could use in the village but sadly this proved to be "dump and fill" only. Having accessed the village we returned to the site full of eager anticipation for a return trip the following day. This was duly achieved and all became worthwhile as we drove into the village square to see our grandchildren Jessica and Jack with their dad, Luke and Sarah waiting for us. Fortunately, we could leave the motorhome in the square outside the church whilst we walked to the villa. The views were splendid
and we thoroughly enjoyed our lunch together.
All too soon we needed to make our way down the valley once more to return to our site where we enjoyed the late evening outside the motorhome, wine in hand soaking up the view of the Tuscan hills
The following morning, we headed for Lucca. After some searching we succeeded in finding the excellent aree di sosta near the centre. It will already be apparent that we prefer to enjoy the security of sites though in this case we wished we had stayed at this gated, secure and so convenient aire. After the short walk, we reacquainted ourselves with this lovely town. Unlike the last time we were here we had the time to circumnavigate the walls which surround the city and a wonderful experience it proved to be.
Lucca retains its charm and we delighted in strolling around the streets and squares.
often passing colourful shops
As had been the case elsewhere it was good to enjoy outside the holiday season and we would always recommend May and June as good months to visit.
From Lucca we set sail for Viareggio, to the site of that name. We had promised ourselves a trip to the coast though we were not over excited at the prospect. It lived up to our worst expectations thogh I am sure for many it would be the ideal holiday resort. Gently frying on a beach is not for us and it was just too crowded. And this was in the low season!
Not disappointed to be leaving Viareggio, we decided to head back into France taking the A12/A10 autoroute all the way round to Cannes. Though quite exensive in tolls there was much compensation both in terms of ease of driving and, more significantly, spectacular views across the med as the road weaved through clear stretches and impressive tunnels. The views improved further as we travelled along the Cote D'Azur looking down on Monaco, Monte Carlo and Nice. We stopped for the night at Le Bar-sur-Loup, 30 km north of Cannes at a delightful site, Les Gorges du Loup, once more in the ACSI site book.
The following morning we avoided the autoroute choosing instead the N7 all the way to Avignon. The French consistently maintain their N roads to a high standard providing a sensible alternative to the toll roads. Perhaps there are some lessons we could learn here! Our TomTom had proved invaluable throughout our travels if a little wayward at times. We had long learned to take advantage of Jan's excellent map reading skills as a necessary complement to the electronic gadgetry.In Avignon though the SatNav proved quite malicious. Whilst searching for the site we found ourselves in the middle of the old town where even cars were embarrassed to travel. Eventually, through luck more than good judgement, we found the site. Bagatelle is located close to the old centre and within a seven minute walk of the town across the bridge from the I'lle de la Barthelasse.
That evening we strolled from the site and walked up the river with superb views of the Papal Palace and, of course, Le Pont D'Avignon.
The following day we spent the day visiting the bridge and touring the Palace. What a wonderful city this is! We would certainly recommend taking the well signposted tour from Bridge to Palace which meanders through the old town.
and if the mood takes you visiting the commercial sector for a touch of shopping.
Sadly, the following morning we found ourselves once more on the road, gradually travelling homeward bound.
The N7 took us north from Avignon along a most attractive route up the Rhone valley. On the way we stopped in a layby for Jan to buy cherries from a roadside stall manned by a charming, old gentleman. Language was not necessary, gestures quite sufficient. We reached La Galmier, north of St Etienne by mid afternoon where we found an excellent site, Campeole Val de Coise. Small and very friendly the terraced site had views across the river and was within walking distance of the most attractive town with a square filled with market stalls.
We enjoyed a relaxing late afternoon absorbing the atmosphere and taking the odd photograph.
The following morning proved something of a disaster. We had made use of the aire positioned outside the site to empty grey water and refill. Whilst reversing out to drive, on our way I must have tangled the bike rack in the hedge. Some two or three miles up the road, we had a feeling all was not right so we pulled into a lay by. The bikes were a sorry sight with the rack frame bent at an impossible angle and the rear wheel of Jan's bike distorted to match the new angle of the frame. Fortunately, we always carry a roll of light rope and were able to bend the rack tying it back together securely.
However, following this mishap, fortunately the only one on our journey, we enjoyed an excellent journey north using and N and D roads. On the way we stopped at Autun to admire the cathedral with its wonderful tympazeum.
We watched children rehearsing for their confirmation in the cathedral and, back in the midday heat, enjoyed an ice cream in the square. We finally arrived at Camping de lEtang de Fouche in Arnay-le-Duc at about 4pm. This flat site is situated by a lake around which provided a very pleasant evening stroll.
Leaving the site mid morning the following day, we headed for Langes. Life is so much easier on the continent in a motorhome. The large car park was virtually empty on a Sunday morning and a lift gently glided us up to the town. We have visited Langres before but this time we had the opportunity to walk the walls and enjoy the view.
We arrived at our next site in Bannes late afternooon.Hautoreille is a peaceful site set amongst gently sloing grassy fields and woods. There was, though, rather a steep slope up to connect the power!
After accessing the internet that evening and finding that gales were forecast for the channel three days hence, we decided to take a long haul towards Calais the following day. Though tired, we arrived at Bien Assise in Guines south of Calais for our final stop prior to catching the ferry the following morning - luckily it was a reasonably calm crossing.
As the holiday started at our CL in Dover so it ended providing the opportunity to clean the motorhome prior to arriving safely back at Chelmsford. Another memorable trip which, in all, took us about 2,500 miles.
France, September 2010
As usual, we travelled to our Dover CL, Lenacre Court Farm, where Mrs Broadley was as welcoming as ever. This site really provides the ideal start to crossing the channel. Arriving earlier than usual, we thought we would sample the delights of Dover and take advantage of our bus passes. We had forgotten how wild bus drivers can be, or is it a more recent phenomenon? I certainly wouldn't want to clip the kerb as often in the motorhome. Still, arriving safely, we enjoyed our walk up the pier and had a quick tour of the shops. The following morning we caught the 6 am ferry and had a brilliant crossing watching the dawn break. Using entirely N roads we made our way down smoothly to Chartres, arriving at Les Bords de l'Eure at around 3 pm. This is an attractive site set amongst trees located in the south east of the city. A lovely riverside footpath leads from the site through parkland all the way to the Cathedral.
The following morning we spent the day in Chartres. Following the fifteen minute walk into town, we enjoyed visiting the cathedral
and generally taking in the atmosphere of this lovely city.
It has to be said the riverside walk back to the site provided an added bonus to the day's outing.
The following morning we set off for Amboise where we had decided to spend a further two nights. The journey, again along the superb French N roads - why would anyone use the autoroute? - took us through much attractive scenery. First stop was Vendome, a beautiful old town with lovely fire displays depicting the musical traditions of the town.
We arrived at Amboise mid afternoon at a lovely municipal site positioned on I'le D'Or which is also the name of the site. We had a pleasant stroll into the town which was five minutes away across the bridge. The following day we again went into Amboise during the morning and thoroughly enjoyed the tourst walk around and above the chateau.
Following lunch, we returned to the site and cycled around the island. We thoroughly enjoyed watching a youngsters, highly competitive, football match. Impressed with the quality of play and obvious enthusiasm we quietly felt our age! We awoke in the morning to the sound of a hot air balloon taking off from the neighbouring field. This must be another photo opportunity.
Slightly later than planned we set off for Martel and Rocamadour.
We joined the D143 south of Amboise and connected with the A20 at Chateauroux. Though an autoroute, it was toll free so we felt entitled to break our only N roads decision taken when we arrived in Calais. Remaining on the A20 we travelled through Limoges and Brive-la-Gaillarde pior to turning on the D140 for Martel. Some years previously, we had visited Martel and, in a magic moment, we listened to an opera singer practising in the school of music. This time, there was no singing but the town had not lost any of its charm during our 20 years absence. Following a break for a couple of hours, we moved on to Rocamadour. Unbeknown to us, it was the day of their annual balloon festival. This created a problem driving through the town but the added bonus of a superb spectacle. The site in Rocamadour was an Aire Naturelle north of the town.
An open, flat site in a vast field, it was everything we could have asked with the added bonus of being able to see the balloons as lifted into the sky.
That evening we to L'Hospitalet to view the carnival more closely and what a spectacle it was.
The following morning we woke to clear blue skies. We walked to Rocamadour exploring the narrow main street and enjoying a coffee overlooking the vally below.
After a break we felt sufficiently energetic to climb up to the Chateau where we had lunch, Following an extremely pleasant day we strolled back to the motorhome and, with obligatory glass of wine in hand, planned our route for the following day.
We headed south from Rocamadour using D roads until we ran into the D653. Here, we turned left at Vefs and headed up the beautiful Lot valley. High in the hills above the valley we visited St-Cirq-Lapopie, a not to be missed village for anyone travelling in the area. The sun was streaming and it was a magnificent view across the valley.
The church proved well worth a visit and we spent a couple of hours walking around the steep streets admiring the houses.
Taking to the road again, we thoroughly enjoyed the route up through the Lot valley turning left at Cajarc. At Figeac we stopped at the supermarket and then moved on to our site at Capdenac-Gare, a town as the name would suggest built around the railway. The site, Camping Municipal Les Rives d'Olt, was positioned on the bank of the Lot with excellent walking along the river to the town. It was here that we saw red squirrel, now so rare a sight in the UK.
The town proved equally attractive, particularly the church in the square which had most attractive stained glass windows.
The following morning we travelled north through Figeac stopping at St Cere - a lovely town with a medieval centre.
We continued on to Bretenaux our next night halt, Camp La Bourgnatelle, this time on the banks of the River Cere. Again a lovely town which we enjoyed walking around in the late afternoon.
The evening we sat in the sun at the site, enjoying a glass of local wine and reading. The following day, we would explore the Dordogne.
Cutting across country, we entered Souillac and then followed the D703 by the side of the Dordogne. The scenery was stunning and, yet again, proved the value of keeping to D and N roads where possible. We turned left outside Calviac-en-Perigord soon reaching Carsac-Aillac. Here we found a recently restored church with lighting arranged so that it came on when entering the building.
The picture fails to do it justice though the outside of the church was equally impressive
Leaving Carsac-Aillac behind we soon entered la Roque-Gageac in its magnificent location. Often little more than a row of riverside houses squeezed between the Dordogne river in front and sheltered below the overhanging cliffs behind, it is truly a 'picture postcard' village.
With ample parking space along the river we were able to spend some time walking through the narrow streets as they climb through an interesting tropical garden.
Apparently, the palm trees and banana plants are possible to grow because the village is south facing and protected from north winds by the cliffs. Of interest are the troglodyte caves set in the cliffs above the village.
Following a very enjoyable lunch, we moved on towards Le Bugue, our next night halt, Les Trois Caupain is a lovely flat site on the outskirts of the town. Again, quiet out of season, we enjoyed a stroll past a farm museum and acquarium to the town centre.
Early the following morning we left and headed north, stopping at Oradour-sur-Glane, a village whose occupants had been massacred by the SS in 1944. It proved a fascinating but moving and harrowing experience. The village has been left as it was after the massacre and it is accessed underground through a museum which carefully describes what had happened.
Late afternoon we arrived at Civray to find the site unmanned and travelled on to Ruffec where we found the perfect farm site, Camping a la Ferme (Peloquin)
Here we met an English couple in a caravan who were very interested in our motorhome. We left the site at about 10am the following morning after chatting again to caravanning friends. It proved a lovely journey notable for the autumn colours. Following shopping at a huge supermarket, we arrived at the next site in Montreuil-Bellay. The site, Camping Les Nobis, was completely empty and was well placed close to the town between the castle and the river.
Following a walk up to the village along a most attractive flight of steps
we walked to the castle
and enjoyed superb views across the valley from the ramparts.
We returned to the motorhome and read prior to a walk up the river before dinner. The next day we were heading for Saumur.
Though it took a while to find the road, we managed to park at Saumur next to the Chateau, a most impressive building with panoramic views over the countryside.
We enjoyed a walk down to the town and across the Loire to buy bread. Continuing on our journey, we arrived at La Fleche where we found that the site would not open until 4 pm. Since we were not over impressed with the appearance of the site anyway, we drove on to Evron where we booked into an ACSI site, Camp Municipal de la Zone Verte. It was raining for the first time throughout the holiday and this prevented us going far but we enjoyed a walk arond prior to settling down for the night.
We left the site in the rain the following morning and called into a local supermarket prior to heading north. Gradually, the rain eased and we arrived at Les Andelys following a pleasant journey on predictably quiet roads. The site, De L'lle des Trois Rois was a delight positioned on the Seine overlooked by the chateau. We thoroughly enjoyed our walk into the village and back along the bank of the Seine.
Our final day involved travelling to Guines where the site, Camping La Belle Peche was far from inspiring, prior to catching the Sea France ferry the following morning.
Another excellent holiday lasting for 16 days from Tuesday 21st September to Wednesday 6th October. Next year, we will leave a little earlier as the days are certainly getting cooler into October.